Reflective document: week 1: Encoded textures

Mind maps on the hand-loom industry, IT sector in Bangalore

We started with a group discussion on what we understand by the description of the project. So we made a mind up of all the words that we could think of: like economic side of the weaving community, the human stories of the weavers, the data of the number of the IT companies, government schemes for IT and weaving sectors etc.

With the multitude of the different aspects, we realized that the project can go in many directions. So it was decided that we first acquaint ourselves with the weavers’ community.

Meeting hand-loom artisans

Bangalore has been the hub of the textile sector till in the last few decades the IT sector took over. So when I started walking towards Kamakshiamma Layout near Old Yelahanka, it struck me as to why and how the weavers have settled in such a remote corner of the city. We visited a handloom worker. His family has been in this dying business since generation. Currently he sits with his brother to do the weaving. His daughter is a college going student and has scant knowledge of the trade.

When we sat at the house, I could see the loom that seems to hold many day-to-day objects. It was more of a jugaad than a well manufactured/ branded machine. The work was laborious. Both the weavers spent around 12 hours each day to make a saree in a week. Towards the end of it they deliver it to an agent who brings them more orders.

I could see that each part of the house was modified to make space for the work. The weavers sat in a dug up area, which made it easier for them to sit. With the limited space, it seemed difficult to accommodate more than one saree, so the extension of one saree would be kept on another.

Compared to the power loom, the hand-loom workers worked longer, but the major difference lied in the fact that these people don’t work under anyone, also creatively it is much more satisfying. I saw their design grid; it takes few days to change to a new pattern. And compared to the workers in the power looms, these people seemed much happier with their product. They showed few sarees and explained the design grid.

It struck me how all the weavers are predominantly just men. I never found a satisfying answer. But in the handloom, the women folks do help with certain aspects of the weaving like rolling the threads. The dye is done by another set of people, which the weavers then buy in bulk to save cost.

Most of the handloom workers learned the skill from their fathers. So I was curious if a new comer can also pick up the skill. It takes two years minimum to gain some basic knowledge, but that does not give them the proficiency which is why people cannot take it up suddenly.

This brought me to the other aspect of the trade. How is the government involved in the trade? The weaver I met is wary of red-tape in government schemes. So instead of using any such schemes, he preferred the agent. He also kept emphasizing the fact that the colours and designs are based on the customer’s interest. But given the fact that he never goes to the market, I am assuming that it is the agent who dictates what patterns and colours to choose from.